Sat-Sun May 20-21st 2000

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Saturday and Sunday, May 20-21st 2000
West Rim Trail
from Slate Run to Ansonia

I've wanted to hike this trail for a long time, and I figured the week before a canoeing trip[ would be a good time.

The West Rim Trail runs along the top of Pine Creek Gorge near Wellsboro, Pa. The entire trail is 30 miles long, but I decided that a more sensible trip would be 13 miles. I wanted a trip without a lot of ups and downs, so I confirmed this with the Pine Creek Outfitters, who shuttled us down to Slate Run for a 2 day, 13 mile, leisurely hike.

Things started bad as soon as we got into the woods.

The whole weekend was rainy, which we were prepared for, but hoped otherwise. The real problem was the fact that I had to carry a 50lb pack when I thought I would be carrying a 40lb pack. Oh well . . . this was a leisurely hike, so I could manage.

The first few miles showed us some great views of the many runs and tributaries that feed Pine Creek, and our feet got plenty wet, since there was a lot of rain in the past few days. After ascending a hill at the end of Slate Run, I began to wonder what the definition of "leisurely" is in Tioga County. Obviously, it means something different than in does where I come from!

At each run we had to make a 100 to 500 foot climb, which did not make me very happy. I was surprised, though, to find that I could do it without too much difficulty. I wish I had that kind of stamina last year on the Appalachian Trail!

We were both exhausted by the time we reached what was to be a highpoint of the trip, a 75 foot waterfall, and we bypassed it in favor of finding a camping spot. What I missed during the decision process was a 2 mile shortcut that could have saved us enough time to see the waterfall. Oh well.

We camped near the canyon rim, about 9 miles from the northern terminus. The view was nice, there was a fire ring, and the ground was fairly flat.

What I didn't realize, although I'm sure it was perfectly safe, was that we were about 20 feet from a cliff with a 500 foot drop! I managed to get some really cool photos of the tent overlooking a rock outcropping 1900 feet above the creek. . . I hope they turn out! [they did, mostly]

The second day was pure hell. Since we missed a 2 mile shortcut, we had to make up time. I'm still surprised at just how well I managed, since my pack was so heavy.

The part of the trail we were on was pretty boring, and I'm not sure why, but it goes away from the canyon rim for quite a distance. I took this hike because I wanted to see the scenery overlooking the canyon, and frankly, for the most part, it would be better to drive to one of the several lookouts on the East rim, such as Colton Point Park, or Leonard Harrison State Park.

After trudging endlessly through the rain and over several 500 foot hills, we made it to the overlooks near the Owassee slide run. The views were very nice, and this is where the photo on the cover of Chuck Dillon's book comes from .

The trail goes right to the edge of the rim. While this may sound nice enough, it was actually pretty scary, since this area is a cliff with a 500 foot drop before you hit the first tree. The trail is such that it literally IS the edge of the rim. What makes it harder yet, is that a thick group of rhododendrons and scrubby undergrowth makes it nearly impossible to bushwhack around the most treacherous parts.

I'm certain that at some point, more than one person has died in this area.

The river below looked pretty scary, since the water was much higher than I had ever seen it. This would turn out to foreshadow the MDBO2000, which you can read about.

After getting past the cliffs, the hike turned into a mud romp. It took use several more hours to go a little over 2 miles, and there was little scenery to make the trip worth while. I believe that the extension put in place in 1985 simply gave hikers access to a major road, and that it was not put in place for the scenery.

At the last run, of which there were many, I decided not to fill my new water filter, despite the fact that I was very thirsty and had no more water.

This was a mistake! I don't know why I always think I can get away without water, but this time drove it home once again. My reasoning was that we only had another mile to go, and why risk giardia?

After 2 more hours, I wish I had filtered the water. I was pretty much worn out by the time we reached the trail end, near the Ansonia Gulf gas station. I imagine they are used to seeing weary packers, and they don't get surprised any more.

Lori waited at the Gulf with our gear while I, newly refreshed with Gatorade, trekked the last half mile to the Pine Creek Outfitters along an old railroad bed now used as a snowmobile path. The path is nice, since you can get to the outfitters without walking along the highway.

I drove back, picked up Lori, and headed for the Wellsboro McDonald's . . .

Lesson learned:
If you have no water but you have a chance to filter water, filter the water--no matter how close you think you are to the end.